Cap Ferrat Part Deux!

Another sunny day on the Côte d’Azur, another day trip.  We originally set out to hike the perimeter of Cap Ferrat and tour both the Villa Ephrussi and Villa Kerylos all on the same day.  Half way through last Saturday’s hike, we realized it would be more enjoyable to split the hike in two and see one villa at a time.  So last week we hiked from Beaulieu-sur-mer to St. Jean and the easternmost part of the peninsula ending at the Villa Ephrussi.

This trip we knew we wanted to hike the lighthouse portion of the peninsula and tour Villa Kerylos so we started at the villa. 

 Villa Kerylos is the creation of Theodore Reinach and his wife, Fanny Kann, the niece of Baroness Ephrussi de Rothschild.  Both Theodore and his brother were avid scholars and their initials formed the monogram JST which lead to the french nickname for them- Je sais tout- meaning "I know all".

It was his love of Greek enlightenment, government and philosophy that lead him to create this villa filled with frescos, artifacts, statuary and furnishings that both inspires and relaxes.  

Built between 1902 and 1908 by an archaeologist turned architect who had rebuilt the Acropolis, it is the perfect example of greek architecture and style with statues and frescos relating to Greek Mythology, tiled mosaic floors and astounding views of the Mediterranean from almost every window. 

I’m not sure how much Pete was joking when he commented “villa goals” from the dining room complete with 180 degree views of the sea and leather woven sofas so that the visitors can eat in a reclined position like the Greeks..

The mosaic doormat at the entry reads

Greek for ENJOY YOURSELF.

After a stop at the Casino(grocery, not gambling) in Beaulieu, we picnicked on the beach of the Baie des Fourmis and began our hike.  

This was not simple to find so I have added some directional pictures.  But believe me, the path is worth the search.  We walked over the Pont St. Jean, past the Villa Ephrussi and entered on the western side at the Plage de Passage, a small, private beach complete with the typical Côte d’Azur overpriced beach restaurant and umbrellas for rent. 

You almost think you are in the wrong spot as the path starts just to the south of an out of place four story gray block condominium but then…..










you head up hill and the narrow path runs along the water’s edge all the way out to the lighthouse.

There are several steep sections with no railing that will make your palms sweat but the views of Villefranche, Mont Boron, and Nice in the distance are spectacular.

Pack your swimsuit because there are several secluded spots to climb down the rocks and swim.  We played the typical loud Americans when we hit the FREEZING water- we are spoiled with the warm Gulf of Mexico- but the water was so clear we could see sea urchins, fish and any rocks from the surface.  

The complete western tip of the peninsula takes about 1.5 hours to hike and heading counterclockwise, you end up in the village of St. Jean with plenty of options for a drink and a snack, or a rest on the beach, before hopping back on bus 81 to head back to Nice.

Note:  If you are doing this part of the hike clockwise- this would be your entry- it would be easy to get discouraged for the first 10 minutes, it looks like a private drive and a graffiti covered deserted beach.  

Cap Ferrat- Hiking to a Belle Epoque Villa

Two summers ago, Camille and I spent two weeks in Villefranche just west of the tiny peninsula of Cap Ferrat.  Embarrassingly, and without wifi, we attempted this hike and just ended up on the road.  Behind the thick hedges, guard dogs, fences and surveillance of the villas, is a fabulous trail that runs along the water's edge.  So that no one else has the confusing experience we had....

Here is how to hike Cap Ferrat.

First off, Bus 81 will take you anywhere you need to go on Cap Ferrat or  Beaulieu-sur-mer for 1.50 euro.  It leaves from the Promenade des Arts in Nice and winds around the Port, over Mont Boron, around Cap de Nice and through Beaulieu and Cap Ferrat.  The views are fantastic from the Moyenne Corniche as you round the Cap and the bay of Villefranche.  

We got off at Baie des Fourmis, the site of the great McGriff Flip Flop caper of 2014, and walked westward to find the entrance to the trail.  Magically, when we knew where to look- it was right there!  My favorite part of this walk is that you wind between the backsides of beautiful villas and the water.  

The rocky terrain here allows for permanent stone and concrete docks and small swimming areas that seem to be open to the public. 

Within a few minutes, the path takes you through downtown St. Jean and past the marina full of wooden fishing boats.  Just a block further along Avenue Jean Mermoz and you are at the Plage des Fossettes and the Fontaine CoeXisT(there are two of these).  

If it is morning, I suggest heading clockwise toward Paloma Plage and back.  If it is afternoon, the opposite so you will take advantage of the sunny side of the walk.  This is a great opportunity to enjoy amazing views of the coast toward Monaco, watch the big yachts and sailboats enter the bay, and enjoy the coastline-you feel like you are in the backyards of some of the villas.  

After the loop, we headed back through town toward the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.  Built in the Belle Epoque style over a 16 year period in the late 1800s by Charlotte Beatrice Ephrussi-Rothschild and her husband, it is situated on 8 hectares of land right in the middle of Pont St Jean atop the hill.  There is a view of Villefranche bay on one side and Baie de Fourmis on the other.  

The audioguide said that she had spent time on a large ship and so enjoyed it that she wanted the villa to have the feel of a ship at sea, hence water on two sides.  

Standing on the balcony of the second floor, the gardens seem to finish the bow of the ship with her replica of the Temple of Love or Trianon from Versailles as a bow ornament.  

With unlimited funds and a quirky personality, the Baroness de Rothschild had a menagerie (by the way, menager means “to blend or mix” in French”) of animals-a ferret, gazelles, a monkey- along with almost any item of furniture or antique she wished for-she has a rug from Versailles, there were 5, 4 burned and the fifth is in her villa.  

But she did use her unlimited resources to create beautiful gardens-Spanish, Japanese, Provençal, exotique, and rose with water elements and dancing fountains. 

The home itself is a work of art with its Italian Renaissance inspired central atrium, marble, and all the most up-to-date amenities of its time- telephones, multiple bathrooms with hot and cold water.  The home and gardens were given to the Academy des Beaux Arts and are well conserved and well run.