Paris- Modern Art to Military History...

May 7th, late night again...

One of my favorite museums in Paris is free- Musee d'Art Moderne.   Camille and I visited here two summers ago with Kelly and were amazed at the Impressionist art that you could walk right up to with no lines!  So we brought Pete back and visited the temporary exhibit for Albert Marquet who we had never heard of.  Turns out, he traveled with Raoul Dufy painting northern France waterfronts, spent time on the Riviera with Matisse and lived from Paris to Algiers.  Pete even loved the work-probably because it was mostly waterfront. Marquet exhibit information

After the museum, we walked up the Right bank for lunch in the Trocadero.  I still think this is the best view of the Eiffel tower without the crowds and street vendors.  And the pictures from the top of the steps are always fun.

Then, an afternoon planned by and for Pete- history, military history.  In all the times I've visited the city, I had never been to Les Invalides.  Built as a hospital, it now holds the Musee l'Armee and the Cathedral with Napoleon's tomb.

 Since Pete was most interested in the World War 1 and World War II parts of the museum, that is where we headed and spent almost two hours learning about the French involvement in both wars.  The museum had a great collection of military uniforms, videos, weapons and interesting facts- some we knew, some were new to us.  For instance, we knew that the French uniforms for WWI had red which looked very fashionable but made them great targets for the enemy.  We also knew that they mobilized over 600 Parisian taxis to transport troops to the front-"the Miracle of the Marne".  We did not know there were alpine divisions of the french army, or that during WWII they dropped hundreds of small silver "windows" with parachutes to confuse German radar into thinking they were parachuting soldiers.

 And after a great dinner with the Bullingtons, back to the Eiffel tower for those great afternoon pics- watch the video and see my competitive son accidentally whack his friend..she was fine, thank goodness.

And a river cruise to rest our tired feet and watch the city light up.  I think I have been on a Bateaux Mouche every time I have been to Paris.  I love how it immediately removes you from the hustle and bustle and dust of the city and the views of the bridges are amazing.

So much to process in one day with another to go...But feeling so lucky for the opportunity.

Cap Ferrat- Hiking to a Belle Epoque Villa

Two summers ago, Camille and I spent two weeks in Villefranche just west of the tiny peninsula of Cap Ferrat.  Embarrassingly, and without wifi, we attempted this hike and just ended up on the road.  Behind the thick hedges, guard dogs, fences and surveillance of the villas, is a fabulous trail that runs along the water's edge.  So that no one else has the confusing experience we had....

Here is how to hike Cap Ferrat.

First off, Bus 81 will take you anywhere you need to go on Cap Ferrat or  Beaulieu-sur-mer for 1.50 euro.  It leaves from the Promenade des Arts in Nice and winds around the Port, over Mont Boron, around Cap de Nice and through Beaulieu and Cap Ferrat.  The views are fantastic from the Moyenne Corniche as you round the Cap and the bay of Villefranche.  

We got off at Baie des Fourmis, the site of the great McGriff Flip Flop caper of 2014, and walked westward to find the entrance to the trail.  Magically, when we knew where to look- it was right there!  My favorite part of this walk is that you wind between the backsides of beautiful villas and the water.  

The rocky terrain here allows for permanent stone and concrete docks and small swimming areas that seem to be open to the public. 

Within a few minutes, the path takes you through downtown St. Jean and past the marina full of wooden fishing boats.  Just a block further along Avenue Jean Mermoz and you are at the Plage des Fossettes and the Fontaine CoeXisT(there are two of these).  

If it is morning, I suggest heading clockwise toward Paloma Plage and back.  If it is afternoon, the opposite so you will take advantage of the sunny side of the walk.  This is a great opportunity to enjoy amazing views of the coast toward Monaco, watch the big yachts and sailboats enter the bay, and enjoy the coastline-you feel like you are in the backyards of some of the villas.  

After the loop, we headed back through town toward the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.  Built in the Belle Epoque style over a 16 year period in the late 1800s by Charlotte Beatrice Ephrussi-Rothschild and her husband, it is situated on 8 hectares of land right in the middle of Pont St Jean atop the hill.  There is a view of Villefranche bay on one side and Baie de Fourmis on the other.  

The audioguide said that she had spent time on a large ship and so enjoyed it that she wanted the villa to have the feel of a ship at sea, hence water on two sides.  

Standing on the balcony of the second floor, the gardens seem to finish the bow of the ship with her replica of the Temple of Love or Trianon from Versailles as a bow ornament.  

With unlimited funds and a quirky personality, the Baroness de Rothschild had a menagerie (by the way, menager means “to blend or mix” in French”) of animals-a ferret, gazelles, a monkey- along with almost any item of furniture or antique she wished for-she has a rug from Versailles, there were 5, 4 burned and the fifth is in her villa.  

But she did use her unlimited resources to create beautiful gardens-Spanish, Japanese, Provençal, exotique, and rose with water elements and dancing fountains. 

The home itself is a work of art with its Italian Renaissance inspired central atrium, marble, and all the most up-to-date amenities of its time- telephones, multiple bathrooms with hot and cold water.  The home and gardens were given to the Academy des Beaux Arts and are well conserved and well run.

Hyères- A Breath of Fresh Air

From start to finish- Hyères was so much more than I expected.  The only time I had ever heard of the village was in a book about Robert Louis Stevenson, Under the Wide and Starry Sky.  He and his wife, Fanny, spent a few years there due to his poor health.  After just one week, I think this magical peninsula- the furthest south of any part of France-  holds the ability to cure most of what ails us as humans.  From the moment we got off the train, the air was fresher, the people warm and friendly and the water an amazing blue and flat even though the strong winds from the east and north continued to blow up to 25 and 30 mph.  The air was dry but the smell reminded us all of home- we were finally at the beach.

 Our morning train ride and taxi out to the beach were uneventful.  Max, the German sailing coach, had to drive towing lasers and a coach boat through Germany, Switzerland, and most of France.  After a long travel day, it was great to see familiar faces and get ready for our two days of practice.

Camille and Pete had two days of on the water training and preparation before the regatta.  We have all decided that this should be status quo for any big competition.  It was nice to settle in, have boats rigged and be familiar with the water before all the other boats started arriving.  Because when they did....wow.  There were sailors from France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Spain, Ireland, Great Britain, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Korea, India, Israel, Argentina, Bahrain, Monaco, and so many more countries.  The female who just won the Reina Sofia regatta in Palma Mallorca was competing- she will be competing in her third Olympics this summer in Rio!!

Needless to say, the course was full of strong sailors and Pete was thrilled to have the experience.

 The Europa Cup in Hyères was four days of racing against 240 Lasers in conditions ranging from 5 knots to 30 knots .  I think Pete McGriff would tell you that the experience is one he will remember for a lifetime and both he and Camille were immediately planning their training for next time.  

I was just thrilled to be a part of the event.  My children continue to amaze me.  There is no way I would have had the nerve to sail in a fleet that strong, in conditions that challenging, in a foreign country.  With each experience, I feel like we are broadening our horizons and the scope of what is possible and attainable for both of them.  

Camille exchanging burgees with the President of COYCH, the host club for the Europacup.

Camille rode on the coach boat to cheer Pete on for the last day.

Talk about ideal conditions, the yacht club was a short 5 minute walk from our apartment.  I could see the regatta from the balcony.

Pete and Coach Max Stein, former Europacup winner.  

This morning...at the Immigration office...

On this trip, we have crossed several hurdles, both official and cultural, to attempt to integrate into this country.  First, was the library cards, trying to obtain proctoring for exams.

Next was the Yacht Club membership,

and even the grocery discount cards...

All of these were really warm ups for the real thing...

Two months ago, on March 14th, while I was living la Dolce vita in Northern Italy I received these two emails which I quickly forwarded to Kelly Bullington labeled S#*% and S#*% part deux.

From: convoimmi2@ofii.fr
Date: March 14, 2016 at 11:01:23 AM GMT+1
To: MCGRIFFK@BELLSOUTH.NET
Subject: Convocation pour la visite médicale

Madame, monsieur,
L'OFII, dans le cadre de ses différents dispositifs vous convoque pour la visite médicale
Dans ce contexte vous êtes convoqué(e) :
 Le 07/04/2016 à 08:30 heures
Vous trouverez dans le fichier joint tous les détails de cette convocation.

Merci de ne pas répondre à ce message.

L'Office Français de l'immigration et de l'intégration.

For those non-French speakers out there...these were "invitations" for me to show up at the Office of Immigration and Integration for a medical exam.  Needless to say, KB celebrated until she realized that she too had received these two letters.  Luckily, I was able to get my appointment postponed since the children and I were in Hyères for the Europacup on 07 avril.  Poor KB had to be the first to enter the system.  Thanks to her trailblazing, at least I knew what to expect.  My appointment was kindly rescheduled for 21 avril, 8H30.

I took a taxi this morning to the visa office- no reason for any additional anxiety from public transportation.  I have a huge binder of paperwork, photos, passport, international health insurance and a receipt for 241 euro to get another stamp in my passport so I can stay here.  The French understand ma français when they feel like it, yet no one has a problem taking my money.  

I spent the money on the taxi to avoid stress and then there was "une accidente " with Les velos(bicycles) et les voitures(cars)  

Needless to say, many emergency vehicles and commuters jammed on the Promenade des Anglais this morning at 7:50am.  

37 euro for the taxi- 

20 minutes in the grimy hallway-

a security guard with a wand checking paperwork-

and a receptionist later---I am sitting in the waiting room with a Moroccan student, a Russian housewife, Japanese students, a Muslim looking guy on a laptop, an Indian in Tevas, working on a cell phone and some Asian girls...

The Russian lady and I are the paleest and cleanest of the group.. She explained that she and her husband wanted to buy a place in California but the visa requirements were too stringent- and while she admits that the French bureaucracy is annoying, the Schengen visa is easier... And they fly here door to door in 5 hours.  

The morning chatter among employees is infuriating, I need another cup of coffee and they are taking their time- their sense of urgency seems to be missing- 
30 minutes after our appointment time, A woman in a white medical jacket just came in and called 3 students by name.  She had large paper clipped papers for each of them.  Is there a way to make sure I have a group of papers in that stack?
And we wait...

9:07
They know my name!!! They just called me and my new Russian friend to a better hall. I am in the system, no turning back now

9:11
My Russian friend is already out said they check eyes in the first room.
C'est tout .

9:29
Moving through the system- 
I was called into the first room, she checked my eyes, had me read a French passage which I butchered, weighed(a little extra considering les baguettes et les croissants) and measured me(I am tall enough to be in France) and checked passport and insurance.

Then another room where I had to take off my shirt and get a chest X-ray.
Each of them ask if I speak French - My patent response- un petit peux- Their patent response is that we will continue en français until you can't understand anymore...I continue to try, most of the instructions I can understand there are words like l'oriel(eyes), assurance(insurance), chemise(shirt) and directional words like à droit (to the right) that keep me from looking completely foolish.  

Next stop, a sweet man asking about my health, it took him several times to convince himself that my blood pressure was really that low, confirmed from my X-ray that I didn't have tuberculosis.  He stamps the visa application.

Then a lady at a desk....
Passport-check
Certificate de domicile(proof that I have a roof over my head)-check
Timbre(stamp that I paid 241euro for this awesomely fun morning excursion)-check
She puts a printed stamp in the passport...

9:48
Je suis finit!

And I rode the velobleu home! Feeling like an official French visiteur.