Cap Ferrat Part Deux!

Another sunny day on the Côte d’Azur, another day trip.  We originally set out to hike the perimeter of Cap Ferrat and tour both the Villa Ephrussi and Villa Kerylos all on the same day.  Half way through last Saturday’s hike, we realized it would be more enjoyable to split the hike in two and see one villa at a time.  So last week we hiked from Beaulieu-sur-mer to St. Jean and the easternmost part of the peninsula ending at the Villa Ephrussi.

This trip we knew we wanted to hike the lighthouse portion of the peninsula and tour Villa Kerylos so we started at the villa. 

 Villa Kerylos is the creation of Theodore Reinach and his wife, Fanny Kann, the niece of Baroness Ephrussi de Rothschild.  Both Theodore and his brother were avid scholars and their initials formed the monogram JST which lead to the french nickname for them- Je sais tout- meaning "I know all".

It was his love of Greek enlightenment, government and philosophy that lead him to create this villa filled with frescos, artifacts, statuary and furnishings that both inspires and relaxes.  

Built between 1902 and 1908 by an archaeologist turned architect who had rebuilt the Acropolis, it is the perfect example of greek architecture and style with statues and frescos relating to Greek Mythology, tiled mosaic floors and astounding views of the Mediterranean from almost every window. 

I’m not sure how much Pete was joking when he commented “villa goals” from the dining room complete with 180 degree views of the sea and leather woven sofas so that the visitors can eat in a reclined position like the Greeks..

The mosaic doormat at the entry reads

Greek for ENJOY YOURSELF.

After a stop at the Casino(grocery, not gambling) in Beaulieu, we picnicked on the beach of the Baie des Fourmis and began our hike.  

This was not simple to find so I have added some directional pictures.  But believe me, the path is worth the search.  We walked over the Pont St. Jean, past the Villa Ephrussi and entered on the western side at the Plage de Passage, a small, private beach complete with the typical Côte d’Azur overpriced beach restaurant and umbrellas for rent. 

You almost think you are in the wrong spot as the path starts just to the south of an out of place four story gray block condominium but then…..










you head up hill and the narrow path runs along the water’s edge all the way out to the lighthouse.

There are several steep sections with no railing that will make your palms sweat but the views of Villefranche, Mont Boron, and Nice in the distance are spectacular.

Pack your swimsuit because there are several secluded spots to climb down the rocks and swim.  We played the typical loud Americans when we hit the FREEZING water- we are spoiled with the warm Gulf of Mexico- but the water was so clear we could see sea urchins, fish and any rocks from the surface.  

The complete western tip of the peninsula takes about 1.5 hours to hike and heading counterclockwise, you end up in the village of St. Jean with plenty of options for a drink and a snack, or a rest on the beach, before hopping back on bus 81 to head back to Nice.

Note:  If you are doing this part of the hike clockwise- this would be your entry- it would be easy to get discouraged for the first 10 minutes, it looks like a private drive and a graffiti covered deserted beach.  

Cap Ferrat- Hiking to a Belle Epoque Villa

Two summers ago, Camille and I spent two weeks in Villefranche just west of the tiny peninsula of Cap Ferrat.  Embarrassingly, and without wifi, we attempted this hike and just ended up on the road.  Behind the thick hedges, guard dogs, fences and surveillance of the villas, is a fabulous trail that runs along the water's edge.  So that no one else has the confusing experience we had....

Here is how to hike Cap Ferrat.

First off, Bus 81 will take you anywhere you need to go on Cap Ferrat or  Beaulieu-sur-mer for 1.50 euro.  It leaves from the Promenade des Arts in Nice and winds around the Port, over Mont Boron, around Cap de Nice and through Beaulieu and Cap Ferrat.  The views are fantastic from the Moyenne Corniche as you round the Cap and the bay of Villefranche.  

We got off at Baie des Fourmis, the site of the great McGriff Flip Flop caper of 2014, and walked westward to find the entrance to the trail.  Magically, when we knew where to look- it was right there!  My favorite part of this walk is that you wind between the backsides of beautiful villas and the water.  

The rocky terrain here allows for permanent stone and concrete docks and small swimming areas that seem to be open to the public. 

Within a few minutes, the path takes you through downtown St. Jean and past the marina full of wooden fishing boats.  Just a block further along Avenue Jean Mermoz and you are at the Plage des Fossettes and the Fontaine CoeXisT(there are two of these).  

If it is morning, I suggest heading clockwise toward Paloma Plage and back.  If it is afternoon, the opposite so you will take advantage of the sunny side of the walk.  This is a great opportunity to enjoy amazing views of the coast toward Monaco, watch the big yachts and sailboats enter the bay, and enjoy the coastline-you feel like you are in the backyards of some of the villas.  

After the loop, we headed back through town toward the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.  Built in the Belle Epoque style over a 16 year period in the late 1800s by Charlotte Beatrice Ephrussi-Rothschild and her husband, it is situated on 8 hectares of land right in the middle of Pont St Jean atop the hill.  There is a view of Villefranche bay on one side and Baie de Fourmis on the other.  

The audioguide said that she had spent time on a large ship and so enjoyed it that she wanted the villa to have the feel of a ship at sea, hence water on two sides.  

Standing on the balcony of the second floor, the gardens seem to finish the bow of the ship with her replica of the Temple of Love or Trianon from Versailles as a bow ornament.  

With unlimited funds and a quirky personality, the Baroness de Rothschild had a menagerie (by the way, menager means “to blend or mix” in French”) of animals-a ferret, gazelles, a monkey- along with almost any item of furniture or antique she wished for-she has a rug from Versailles, there were 5, 4 burned and the fifth is in her villa.  

But she did use her unlimited resources to create beautiful gardens-Spanish, Japanese, Provençal, exotique, and rose with water elements and dancing fountains. 

The home itself is a work of art with its Italian Renaissance inspired central atrium, marble, and all the most up-to-date amenities of its time- telephones, multiple bathrooms with hot and cold water.  The home and gardens were given to the Academy des Beaux Arts and are well conserved and well run.

Hyères-Sailing, Salt flats, and Island Hikes

After two days of training, we handed Pete off to the coach and Camille and I set out to see what else Hyères had to offer.  The answer....a lot!  

We enjoyed a wonderful Sunday afternoon in a centre ville that was clean and devoid of any souvenirs, soap shops, lavender merchants.  Then, with help from a sweet lady and yet another public transportation system, we made it to the Route de Sel.  This system of salt flats was a major producer of salt in France from the 1100s until the 1970s when the more commercialized Camargue salt took over.  Today, the flats have been turned into a bird sanctuary full of flocks of flamingos!(I did not see that coming in France!) One side of the sandy road is the sanctuary, the other a sandy beach facing west on the peninsula with a beach bar and windsurfers.  We joined local families out for a stroll or a bike ride on this 5 mile stretch then took the 2 mile sidewalk back to the Port in time to hear about Pete's day on the water.

Camille had been intrigued by the barrier islands around Hyères, La Lavande, Port Cros, and Porquerolle.  With minimum internet connection and some scouting around the harbor, we figured out that Port Cros has been made a National Park, the ferry goes there once a day and returns in the afternoon, less than 100 people live on the island.  So on Monday, we sent Pete to the yacht club and hopped the ferry along with vacationers and their groceries headed to beach homes on La Lavande and shopkeepers headed to work on Port Cros.  The ferry was a much more local experience than I expected.  One guy got on with 5 baguettes and a dog.



Camille and I walked through town to the tourist office to get a trail map and actually beat the lady to work- she had been on the ferry with us.  She sold us a map and then pulled out a topographical model to show us that the four hour hike we were choosing was a cliff hike with a challenging uphill at the beginning. So we were prepared for the monte up the center of the island.  It paid off with more breathtaking views- we saw less than 10 other people, and two snakes, on the entire hike.

Just before returning to the village, we stopped at a small beach with water so clear and cold you could hardly believe it.  In the summer, there is a snorkeling "nature trail" underwater.

Back in the village waiting for the ferry, we watched the few villagers get ready for summer.  Sidewalks are being repaired, fresh paint, unpacking shipments from the ferry.  One little boy rode his bike from one end of the village to the other, back and forth along the hard packed clay for over an hour.  A group of hikers played boule next to the water.  And at 5:30, we all got on the ferry to head back to the mainland.  The little bike rider and his bike were with us and he cried to be leaving his family that stayed on the island.  The few hikers that were staying the night had to check in at the dock so that the captain had everyone accounted for and as we pulled out, Camille and I counted less than 20 people staying for the night.

I am sure both the Route de Sel and Port Cros become more congested in the summer months but we are thankful for our time here, sharing both the amazing international sailing and the simple local places.

Hyères- A Breath of Fresh Air

From start to finish- Hyères was so much more than I expected.  The only time I had ever heard of the village was in a book about Robert Louis Stevenson, Under the Wide and Starry Sky.  He and his wife, Fanny, spent a few years there due to his poor health.  After just one week, I think this magical peninsula- the furthest south of any part of France-  holds the ability to cure most of what ails us as humans.  From the moment we got off the train, the air was fresher, the people warm and friendly and the water an amazing blue and flat even though the strong winds from the east and north continued to blow up to 25 and 30 mph.  The air was dry but the smell reminded us all of home- we were finally at the beach.

 Our morning train ride and taxi out to the beach were uneventful.  Max, the German sailing coach, had to drive towing lasers and a coach boat through Germany, Switzerland, and most of France.  After a long travel day, it was great to see familiar faces and get ready for our two days of practice.

Camille and Pete had two days of on the water training and preparation before the regatta.  We have all decided that this should be status quo for any big competition.  It was nice to settle in, have boats rigged and be familiar with the water before all the other boats started arriving.  Because when they did....wow.  There were sailors from France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Spain, Ireland, Great Britain, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Korea, India, Israel, Argentina, Bahrain, Monaco, and so many more countries.  The female who just won the Reina Sofia regatta in Palma Mallorca was competing- she will be competing in her third Olympics this summer in Rio!!

Needless to say, the course was full of strong sailors and Pete was thrilled to have the experience.

 The Europa Cup in Hyères was four days of racing against 240 Lasers in conditions ranging from 5 knots to 30 knots .  I think Pete McGriff would tell you that the experience is one he will remember for a lifetime and both he and Camille were immediately planning their training for next time.  

I was just thrilled to be a part of the event.  My children continue to amaze me.  There is no way I would have had the nerve to sail in a fleet that strong, in conditions that challenging, in a foreign country.  With each experience, I feel like we are broadening our horizons and the scope of what is possible and attainable for both of them.  

Camille exchanging burgees with the President of COYCH, the host club for the Europacup.

Camille rode on the coach boat to cheer Pete on for the last day.

Talk about ideal conditions, the yacht club was a short 5 minute walk from our apartment.  I could see the regatta from the balcony.

Pete and Coach Max Stein, former Europacup winner.